Thessaloniki: the new traditional souvlatzidiko in town
Souvlakination talks to Konstantinos Gravanis of Kyr Giorgis
Left to right: loukanika (sausages), pork souvlakia and chicken souvlakia at Kyr Giorgis.
You’re in Greece, in Thessaloniki: a UNESCO City of Gastronomy and, to many, Greece’s culinary capital.
What do you think? How hard can it really be to find great souvlakia, cooked to perfection and handmade using fresh meat sourced from independent Greek producers?
Recommendations from locals and seasoned foodies will take you as far Zygos in Stavroupoli or Tzertzeles in Toumpa. But what if you’re looking for something a bit more central? Don’t take this the wrong way: there are plenty of options for souvlakia in Thessaloniki. There is one newcomer, though, that really stands out: Kyr Giorgis.
Here you can hear from the man who opened the souvlatzidiko in honour of his father. Read what he told us below.
Souvlakia in Thessaloniki
First things first: what do you mean by souvlakia? Thessalonians are quite pedantic when it comes to the term.
When somebody says “souvlaki” in Thessaloniki, they are most likely referring to the meat skewer (which is usually made of pork). In Athens and southern Greece, however, the term for the plain skewer is kalamaki. In and around Athens, the term souvlaki has evolved to acquire the meaning of the entire wrap, or tylichto. Ask for a souvlaki in Athens, and you may be asked what you want inside. Ask for a souvlaki in Thessaloniki, and you will be given a plain skewer of meat. You can read more about souvlaki terminology here.
Unsurprisingly, in a nation with a history of warring city states, civil war and binary paradigms, this too is the source of a long-standing inter-regional debate.
Konstantine, souvlaki or kalamaki?
“Both. Both are… correct. In southern Greece, there were many reeds (kalamies), which were originally used to skewer the meat. The wooden skewers were made from reeds. In northern Greece and the rest of Greece, they used needles (souvlia), hence the other terms: souvla/souvles, ksilakia (wooden skewers), souvlakia (small souvles). So both have their own truth – kalamaki too,” he quips.
“There are some people in Greece who still skewer souvlakia using [the reeds], i.e. on a skewer made from scratch using a reed.”
The païdakia (lamb chops) at Kyr Giorgis are also worth writing home about.
All of a sudden, it makes sense why Kyr Giorgis is so impressive. Konstantinos is someone who knows his craft and its heritage. He’s sharp and articulate. It’s no surprise, then, that a souvlatzidiko that opened in the summer of 2023 is already making such a strong impression. A board of païdakia (chops) are slung onto the table, cooked to perfected and topped with a generous sprinkle of oregano. We’d already tucked into the platter of souvlakia and loukanika (sausage) by that point.
The emphasis here is on quality ingredients, sourced from small Greek producers. That’s somewhat noteworthy, given that a large proportion of meat consumed in Greece is imported from abroad these days.
So what makes the traditional souvlaki, then?
“The traditional souvlaki… it’s handmade, using pork… But a souvlaki might be anything that’s been skewered.” Although pork might be the standard option for souvlaki and gyros in Greece, the menu at Kyr Giorgis goes beyond that.
“Now, souvlakia can be made with all meats. Here we have beef, lamb and mutton too.” You’ll find those less common options listed under the “special souvlaki” section of the menu. Pork remains the default option, with chicken as the most common alternative.
Of course, it’s not just the type of meat that matters. Good souvlatzides will place a great deal of emphasis on where they source their meat from. A fact that surprises many about Greece is the extent to which pork is imported from other EU states, such as Holland. Imports make up some two-thirds of the meat that Greeks consume. As mentioned above, Konstantinos and Kyr Giorgis are bucking the trend.
“All of our souvlakia, and most of our meat, comes from Larissa and Elassona. It’s fresh, from producers that we know personally; from small producers. We work with natural marinades, everything is home-made – as much as is possible – just as our mothers, grandmothers, and grandfathers would make it at home.”
Tell us more about the story behind Kyr Giorgis
“Kyr Giorgis was my father, from Elassona. The shop of Kyr Giorgis is located at Venizelou 54 [in Thessaloniki], but at 55 we started a shop making handmade pites [pies, pastries]: Kyra Sofi. She was the wife of Kyr Giorgi, and I have them here side-by-side, together.”
What’s next for Kyr Giorgi and Kyra Sofi? The answer is a biftekadiko (burger joint) named, also named Kyr Giorgis, on the busy pedestrianised street of Zefxidos. If the immediate impression Kyr Giorgis has made on the neighbourhood is anything to go by, the next opening will be another one to watch.
Both times we’ve visited, Kyr Giorgis has been buzzing with locals having a great time. The souvlakia and all of the meats are cooked to perfection, and everything from the pites, to the chips, to the dips are made in store by hand. Nothing is an after thought.
As for the souvlakia, no complex marinades or puddles of ladolemono (oil and lemon) to drown out the meat. After all, there is nothing for Konstantino and his team to hide. It’s rare you find a new opening in a busy city centre speaking about provenance, tradition, and the heritage of the food they are making in the way that Konstantino does.
If you find yourself in Thessaloniki, go give it a try. You might find Souvlakination there too.
📍 Kyr Giorgis, Venizelou 54, Thessaloniki 546 31, Greece.